Wednesday, December 29, 2004

Big Night Out on Broadway

We have uncovered another local myth. The ‘city that never sleeps’ does, however, close up, shut down and retire for the night. Last night we went to Broadway to enhance our total New York experience and soak up the atmosphere of the theatre district. Visiting relative took care of Wee Child with the help of rented DVD’s, popcorn and homemade hotdogs, and we bravely took the car and drove in with another of those dodgy maps. Ahmed has driven in to the city a couple of times for work, but in spite of that, I clung to those maps, scouted for the signs and directed the journey… just in case. Wouldn’t want to miss curtain-up because we’re in New Jersey by mistake. It snowed on the way in to add to the snow we had on Monday – at least we had a White Boxing Day night, if not Christmas – but just a light flurry I think they’d call it here. Not enough to make snowballs, but enough to remind you that its awful cold outside.

Whoopi Goldberg’s solo show ‘Whoopi’, reworked and returned to Broadway, was our show of choice (thanks Santa) and finally we felt like we were here. There she was, up close, in person (or im-person-ating her characters actually) live and on stage as they say in the playbills, and it was great. We (Santa) had paid premium for great seats, the location of which was only marred by the ignoramuses next to us with luggage (!), rustling snack bags, cans of coke and endless whispering, talking and laughing unrelated to the show itself. There’s always one, but why are they always next to me? Funny show, not as physical as the one she did 20 years ago which I’ve seen on video, but then we’re all in different shape to what we were 20 years ago.

We made it in early enough to grab a quick pre-theatre dinner at a relatively nice restaurant. Food ok, but not sparkling. After the show we crossed over Times Square and walked the same three blocks three times looking for a dessert and coffee place we’d seen on our stroll on the way in, only to discover it was near where we’d parked the car, opposite the theatre we’d been in, and, by the time we found it again, closed. A small trattoria we’d considered for dinner but passed by as it was full, let us in for dessert and coffee even though they were closing. Kind of them. Twenty minutes, a slice each of chocolate mousse cake and cheesecake (a proper slice, not the enormous pieces we get at home that require three persons – servings I call ‘multiple-fork’ sizes), two espressos, and $26 (including tips) later we were done. Who says there’s no fast money to be made in the food business. And the theatre district was closing up for the night. At 11pm. I had another of my homesick moments – missing Melbourne’s cafés and good coffee and busy-ness late at night. If it hadn’t been for the trattoria, we’d have been at Starbucks, a chain I’ve so far managed to avoid, and even some of those were closing up. Times Square was wall-to-wall people, so much so I hugged my bag to myself as I wouldn’t have known if someone was pick-pocketing, there was so much touristic jostling. But a block away from the Square, it was slowing down and packing up for the night.

So it seems the city does knock off for the day, even if it doesn’t sleep well. The peep shows and sleaze bars stay open giving the illusion of something appealing to do at a late hour, but that’s really just an illusion.

Thursday, December 23, 2004

Merry Christmas

It’s not quite a white one yet, but it’ll be 28F on the day and a bit of snow may fall. It won’t take much for me to call it a White Christmas though, I’ll not be put of by a technicality regarding depth and coverage. It looked pretty white earlier in the week. This is what I didn’t blog then:

Monday 20 December, 2004.
Cold just ain’t strong enough a word. With a high of 18 and a low of 8, it doesn’t sound too bad. But that’s Fahrenheit not Celsius. In real money, that’s a high of -8 and a low of -13. So now I know what the snow weather is like. And apparently there’s more to come. Oh goody.

Today a reprieve from the cold, instead we have rain washing away the last of Monday’s snow and we’re up to 50F (10C) [Sorry, can’t do those little superscript degree symbols, I’m having a techno-moron day].

There’s a ‘shopper-alert’ out today. 250 million dedicated consumers are making their annual pilgrimage to a mall somewhere to spend the last of their Christmas bonus in order they make amends for last year’s appalling last minute gifts. It’s hell out there folks. Take it easy.

In spite of the excitement of at last having a reason to eat a hot meal with pudding on the 25th, we’re missing home and all of you there. Here’s wishing you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Sometime between those two events I shall endeavour to finish Chapter 2 of the Thanksgiving story – oh yes, there’s more – and catch you up with December’s news.

Tuesday, December 14, 2004

Thanksgiving Weekend, Chapter One

Part 1
Thanksgiving weekend was an opportunity to get away and have a look at where we are so I arranged a trip to Boston for the weekend, but before we left we spent Thanksgiving (Thursday) at home having a pyjama day watching TV. Yasmin helped Ahmed make pancakes for breakfast while we watched the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade. By the time that was finished it was time for me to start cooking lunch. I skipped the idea of a whole turkey just for the 2 and ½ of us and bought a piece of a turkey. I roasted that up with baked potatoes, candied yams and vege. True to the spirit of the local tradition of last minute preparations, I made canned turkey gravy, and for what reason I don’t know, opened a can of cranberry jelly – a big 410g can of it. I’m the only one that eats it and then only a tiny bit. So there’s 405g of cranberry jelly still sitting in our fridge. Perhaps its waiting to see if there’s going to be a Christmas turkey. I know Thanksgiving is about pilgrims, native Americans and harvest and being thankful etc. but it’s not a history I’m familiar with so it feels like little more than an excuse for a long weekend and a practice run for the gluttony that is Christmas. After snacks and a turkey lunch we were too stuffed for dessert. So we ate pumpkin pie for dinner that night, also compliments of America’s obsession with convenience. I used a bought ready-to-bake pie shell, a can of pumpkin puree, eggs, cream and spices, baked it next to the roasting turkey, and served it with the worst whipped cream ever. Not that I didn’t try to do better. I bought the thickest whipping cream I could find, whipped it myself, and within an hour it had sort of dissolved and gone soft and vapid like the stuff you get out of a can. Didn’t stop me eating it, though can’t say I’ll be keen to do so again.

Next day we actually managed to leave on time for our drive to Boston. I’d spent the week on the internet plotting, planning and scheduling this trip and if we didn’t start out like the plan….

But we did. And it turns out Boston is a very nice three-hour drive or thereabouts. We drove as per the map, at least until we got to the city itself, and stopped for coffee and doughnuts on the way. I’d hoped we’d have lunch at this quaint little Publick House, but I was vetoed by the doughnut lovin’ family, so Dunkin’ Donuts it was. I did get to drive past the Publick House. A big, old inn with a restaurant. Maybe next time.

By lunchtime we were having the first of many, many, ever-more heated discussions about directions as we missed the highway into the city that we were supposed to be on and heated off at some odd angle. There was no need to turn off at all but the highway split and my darling elected to take the left fork, asking me which way right as he’s making the turn. Now when it comes to maps and navigation, as you already know, (I think) I am quite the expert, hampered only by my spouse’s refusal to follow instructions. And if I had a paper map with all the streets marked, not just the ones we are supposed to be on, that might be true. But I didn’t have a proper paper map did I? No. I had a print out of the route map planner from the computer and the wee little electronic map on the palm pilot. Both are awkward but the palm – #$%@! By the time you zoom out, in, across, up or down, you’re a mile past the intersection you were looking for. And I can’t for the life of me flip back and forth between pages on that thing. So as long as we stayed on the correct roads as per the route plan, I had a map. Otherwise, it’s a game of guess-the-destination. Which it mostly was for the entire weekend.

Part 2
Once we got into Boston and circuited the city’s plethora of one-way streets we found a car park building and tried walking. That was little better to start with. As soon as we got going we had to find a restroom. So we headed into the nearest hotel. Turns out it has several entrances and exits, all on different streets. Once we got out, we couldn’t discern north/south from east/west. And there was a distinct nip in the air. A few minutes on a street corner facing different directions and looking quizzically about and eventually we headed in the direction of Boston Common, and fortunately, it was the right direction. Walked around that and through the financial district to Fanueil Hall market area to see what it was. It was a market. Who’d’ve thought. With food outlets. By this time its more than a distinct chill, its cold and we’re hungry so we pay $10 for three tiny hotdogs. Then the crowds started to get annoying so we headed back to the Common to see the skaters on the Frog Pond.

Now its getting damn cold and starting to look like sunset. Yasmin needed a run to warm up as sitting still in the stroller she’d started to freeze, fingers and toes first. But she tripped over a raised flagstone in the pavement and the tears! So we tried to keep her cheerful and warm with a walk. It helped a bit but the playground next to the Frog Pond was and even better idea. A bit of a run around on the play equipment with other kids about worked. Of course then I got cold standing guard on the stroller while she and Ahmed had fun. Now you might think the problem with the temperature was that we’d forgotten to bring coats, but not so. We had our warmest coats, hats, and gloves and it was still cold. I’m sure the only reason it wasn’t snowing was because it was sunny, at least until that disappeared.

We took a photo of the skaters but didn’t wait in the queue to have a go ourselves for all the reasons I’ve mentioned (cold, cold, cold). Instead we walked along Beacon Street to find Cheers. And found it. (For those of you not old enough to remember, it was a TV series in the 1980s that spawned Frasier.) If we’d known kids were allowed, we’d have had our hotdogs there, but instead we had a photo outside under the sign then walked back across the Common to start looking for the car park building. Not so easy. Couldn’t find it, but did find the hotel we’d had our rest stop in. Round and round and upside down, eventually it’s visible. We pay before collecting our car then spend so long in the car park looking at the laptop map to try and figure the way to our hotel that the parking ticket expires. Here we are again right in the middle of another domestic ‘moment’. Thankfully the garage attendant/security guard was of generous nature and not only let us out but helped us work out where we were and directed us to the hotel. Ah, the kindness of strangers.

However, following his directions turned out to be another challenge altogether.

Part 3
The bit of town we were in isn’t a neat grid pattern where the one-way streets make sense. It’s some horrific, scarified version of a circle, outside of which are the most enormous road works which will one day grow up to be a grand and beautiful connection of highway interchanges. For now it’s a nightmare of rubble, closed entry and exit points, missing signage and peculiar detouring. This was what we tried to negotiate in the dark, with an inadequate set of directions, an even worse map and two frayed tempers, which were not helped by the back seat driver “go that way Dad” (at her age!) We found ourselves on some rickety-looking double highway – we were on the bottom and people were driving on the road above us and couldn’t get off. There were no exits. We couldn’t see in the dark, but it turned out we were over a very wide waterway, where the river meets the sea. Just as well we didn’t turn off, might have got wet.

At the point where I’m beginning to think we’re halfway to the Canadian border, Ahmed turns off into a suburb, and almost gets it right. But we missed the next turn and find ourselves in a typical local street with houses decorated for the holidays and a corner store. But no hotel. More map consultation, though by this time I’m not sure why we haven’t worked out that it’s pointless, a quick u-turn and a right onto the main artery and we’re getting close. Two miles past the street we were supposed to turn at, we stop again, consult that map thing again, another u-turn, another right and oh, looky-there, a hotel. In the middle of nowhere. It was surrounded by vacant lots that needed mowing and an industrial area on the other side. The side our window looked out on it turns out. No wonder the rooms were cheap. But with temperatures arctic and patience worn out, a quick check-in, a hotel dinner (nice but the atmosphere was way too posh for the food or the clientele), and a hot cup of hotel tea made in the coffee maker (a new skill to add to my culinary repertoire), we all happily snuggled down to watch TV and congratulate each other on a nice first day of the holiday.

Monday, December 06, 2004

It snowed today...

We had our first snowfall today. And in spite of weather forecasts warning us it was on its way, we got caught in it without coats. But it was only a short walk to the car (which I’d thought to fill with coats, gloves and hats – but not take with us) and Yasmin was so excited trying to catch snowflakes that we hardly noticed the cold. Ahmed was hunkered down in his office with the door closed yelling at some poor sod on the other end of the phone and had no idea of the weather until I called him to tell him to meet us for lunch. We went to a local diner for chicken soup and watched the snow fall on the hill behind through a big picture window. It was so pretty – like a confectioners delicate touch with the icing sugar. (Ah, how sweet… phrase and image) But I’m guessing that by mid-January it’s going to look more like one of Yasmin’s exuberant kitchen efforts with the icing sugar – all over the place and a bit of an annoying mess. Ahmed thinks he’s going to brave out this snow stuff but I don’t think he’s caught on that it’s not lots of cold fluff but that it’s wet, cold, fluff that melts on you.

His mother his here for a week on her way to (slightly) warmer climes and so shopping is the order of the day once more. I’ve not even had time to tell you about our trip to Boston on Thanksgiving weekend before the next thing crops up. Its all go here at this time of year. And with today’s snow, we look sure to have something like a real white Christmas. Now if I can just get my head around the fact that snowmen, fat red Santa’s and Yule logs are appropriate (in this part of the world) for this time of the year, I might overcome my squeamishness at sending cards of traditional red, green and white. For once the boiled Christmas pud is going to be appropriate for lunch on the day, although I’m late making them this year and not sure I’ll be able to source all the necessary ingredients. I haven’t seen any puds about at all. There’s lots of Christmas fare but its less attached to its European roots than I expected.

And that’s one thing I’m surprised I miss about Christmas at home – its relationship to religion. Although it is also becoming disconnected from a Christian tradition in Oz, here it seems to have gone further and you can barely pick it from any other holiday event. The phrase of choice is ‘Happy Holidays’ although ‘Happy Hanukkah’ is also acceptable, as is ‘Feliz Navidad’. I’ve only seen one nativity scene, outside a church. Now I’m not big on religion, kinda got my own views on the whole thing, but Christmas is surely about Christ and the whole ‘saviour-is-born-thing’, n’est pas? If you’re going to have a secular consumer-fest wouldn’t it be better to call it another name and start over, rather than bastardize some pre-existing social arrangement?